Fighting moneylenders since 1637, the city pawnshop – the Credit Municipal of Paris – also hosts art shows. To reach them you have to cross two ancient courts and tread on the remnants of medieval city walls. Many of those you pass are going to swap their goods for money.
Over the past four months, the gallery has been showing photographs by Jean-Phillippe Charbonnier (1921–2004). This expo, The Eye of Paris, has proved enormously popular. Charbonnier started as an editor at the left-wing paper Libération but he soon revealed a singular eye.
Like some more famous names – André Kertész, Èduoard Boubat, Brassaï or Robert Doisneau – Charbonnier liked to focus on daily life in Paris. The difference was he never tried to sentimentalise. He preferred “the amazing, the absurd and the coincidental”.
Charbonnier shot film stars, celebrities and fashion and he photographed all over the world. Yet he always relished the funkiest parts of home – as well as the quirks that typified his city’s working people. “His images,” says curator Emmanuelle de l’Ecotais, “can seem harsh. Because they pardon nothing, soften no traits and erase no faults. For him, everything is powered by a gentle irony.”
Parisians from Victor Hugo to Claude Monet’s wife have availed themselves of the pawnshop. But, over its three-plus centuries, Credit Municipal has evolved. These days, they offer estimation and auction services as well as “safe storage” for valuables, pieces of art or fine wines.
Nevertheless, the pawn service (le prêt sur gage) continues to flourish. There’s a reason all of Paris knows the place as Ma tante or “My auntie”.
Charbonnier himself would have liked “Auntie’s Happy Morning”. Once a week, from 9 to 10 a.m. on Thursday, this offered free admission to his show. Each viewer also received a coffee and croissant.
• The Eye of Paris remains open through Valentine’s Day. Celebrate by seeing it!
•.Click here for a BBC tour of the pawnshop
• Charbonnier and his wife, Agathe Gaillard, founded the city’s first photography gallery. Opened in 1975, the Galerie Agathe Gaillard remains busy today.