Catherinette at Paris city hall, pic: Déborah Lesage/Mairie de Paris
The Paris couture lives by a calendar of its own. But, during the holidays, it’s always on view someplace. Not only do its designers produce dolls, trees and cakes; they also lend their expertise to Christmas windows and fêtes. But for them, the season officially starts in November. That’s because of Saint Catherine’s Day on 25 November. It’s the moment they celebrate fashion’s young, single females – who are known in France as les Catherinettes.
City reception for the 2013 Catherinettes, pic: Jean-Baptiste Gurliat/Mairie de Paris
Officially Saint Catherine’s Day honours a fourth-century martyr. She is the patron of all young, unmarried women. But, even among the grisettes, Catherine was a rag trade fave.
Catherinette from house of Chanel, pic: Déborah Lesage/Mairie de Paris
No-one works in a couture atelier on the 25th. But they’ve already made lavish hats for all their Catherinettes.* Historically, young French ladies hoping to be married would make special bonnets in Catherine’s colours. Their confections in green and yellow decorated her statues and, if they pleased the saint, she might help you find a husband. Now, it’s become a design competition – one that pits Chanel against Dior, etc. After ‘winning’ designs in various categories are named, all the Catherinettes parade at city hall.
Arriving at Hôtel de Ville, pic: Déborah Lesage/Mairie de Paris
The next day, of course, they’re all back at work. Before they can even think about spring, they have to help with the Christmas events. One of these is Christmas trees of the Créateurs. Another seasonal auction, its works were previewed in the former home of the Rothschilds.
Tree by Jean-Paul Gaultier, pic: Steve Sampson
All the designer trees there came from impressive names: Dior, Pucci, Rykiel, Pierre Hermé and Gaultier. Eventually, all were sold to raise money that will help fight cancer. But, while on display, they drew enormous crowds. Some of the viewers were eager to see the actual trees. Others (like us) were just as curious about the Hôtel Rothschild.
Maybe next year, the Catherinettes can donate chapeaux.
Tree by créatrice Stella Cadente; pic: Steve Sampson
* In addition to les Catherinettes there are les Nicolas (bachelors under thirty, protected by Saint Nicolas).
Detail, the Louis Vuitton tree; pic: Steve Sampson
Tree by Dior, pic: Steve Sampson
Detail, Dior tree: pic: Steve Sampson
Macaron tree by celeb pastry chef Pierre Hermé